Top 10 traditional bars in Brussels | Brussels holidays

February 2024 · 5 minute read
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Top 10 traditional bars in Brussels

Brussels has no shortage of cosy bars where you can sample the finest Belgian beers while soaking up the atmosphere. John Brunton picks the city's best 'estaminets'

While Londoners lament the disappearance of their old-fashioned pubs and Parisians complain that bistrots are being replaced by "le fast food", visitors to Brussels will quickly realise that this is an oasis for anyone looking for an old-fashioned pub crawl. Bars in Brussels are known as "estaminets"; many date back to the 18th century and have remained unchanged ever since. Belgium boasts well over 100 independent breweries producing around 600 different beers, and while some estaminets actually brew their own ales, others have a choice spanning a couple of hundred beers. The bars themselves resemble the snug of a Victorian pub, and are certainly not restricted to beer-lovers - wine, coffee, tea and cheap, tasty snacks can be ordered at any time of the day.

1. A la Becasse

La Becasse, "The Lark", is hidden away at the end of a narrow passage, just near the Grand Place. The bar is famous all over the city for its "jeune lambic blanche", a refreshing white beer served in a stone jug. The waiters wear monastic-style uniforms and prepare the house speciality - delicious open sandwiches of sourdough bread with Ardennes ham or smoked herrings.

· Rue de Tabora 11

2. A La Mort Subite

Photograph: John Brunton

Nothing has changed for a century in this historic bar that bears the name of the brewery, "Sudden Death", that supplies its beer. The prices are chalked up on huge mirrors, the walls yellowed with smoke, and waitresses bustle between the tables serving a hundred different beers accompanied by hearty plates of cheese and sausages. A great, noisy meeting place at lunch and early evening for students, businessmen, shoppers and elderly Brussels citizens.

· Rue Montagne-aux-Herbes Potagères 7
www.alamortsubite.be

3. Taverne Greenwich

The Greenwich doesn't have any particularly famous beers, but it is unique in Brussels. This is known as "the quiet bar", because it is dedicated to the game of chess, with most of the tables occupied by clients of all ages deeply engrossed in chess matches. The decor is stunning Art Nouveau, and the young owner, Nicolas Paneritis, who has recently taken over this family business, insists he will never modernise the bar, but has made the revolutionary decison to devote Friday night to Tango dancing.

· Rue des Chartreux 7

4. Au Bon Vieux Temps

"The Good Old Days" is an excellent name for this quaint bar which has been here for over 300 years. The interior looks like an ancient Gothic church, complete with stained glass windows. Order a Picon vin blanc, a typical Belgian cocktail which combines an aromatic aperitif with white wine.

· Impasse Saint Nicolas 4

5. In't Spinnekopke

Walk into the Spinnekopke, "The Spider's Web", and it is as if you've accidentally wandered into someone's living room, with everything unchanged from a century ago - tiled floor, red-checked table clothes, wooden benches - everyone noisily chatting away like one big family. Bear in mind, though, that the place only operates as a bar before midday and between 3pm and 6pm; the rest of time it is restaurant-only, serving excellent French and Belgian cuisine.

· Place du Jardin aux Fleurs 1, spinnekopke.be; Closed Saturday lunchtime and all day Sunday

6. Le Corbeau

Photograph: John Brunton

Le Corbeau (The Raven) is the place serious beer drinkers head for. You can try weird and wonderful brews like Guillotine, Verboden Frucht (Forbidden Fruit), Delirium Tremens, as well as exotic Kriek or Framboise, which respectively taste of cherry and raspberry. But if you really want to impress the locals, order a "Chevalier", which comes in a glass that is about two feet long! It's worth remembering the Le Corbeau is also a good bet for a cheap lunch, serving plats du jour like "carbonade de boeuf" (beef braised in beer), and "stoemp", similar to a Lancashire hotpot.

· Rue Saint Michel 18

7. Poechenellekelder

The Poechenellekelder is right opposite Brussels' most famous - and kitsch - monument, the Mannekin Pis statue, and most people's first reaction would be that it is a classic tourist trap to be avoided at all costs. But go down the steep steps that lead into "The Puppet Cellar" and you'll soon realise that you've stumbled on a wonderfully authentic bar. The young barmen couldn't be more friendly, and the decor is more like a surreal museum than a pub. Apart from the usual beers, they also prepare strange traditional snacks like "tete pressee", a tasty brawn, and "kannibal", the Belgian version of steak tartare served on an open sandwich.

· Rue du Chêne 5

8. A l'Imaige Nostre-Dame

Tucked away at the end of a long alleyway, this cosy saloon is a firm favourite with a raucous, colourful crowd of Brussels locals, and there is a great atmosphere at any time of the day. The genial owner, Yves, will happily guide you through the dozens of different beers he sells, and don't be surprised if a couple of grizzled regulars break into song, as everyone seems to like singing in this bar.

· Rue Marche-aux-Herbes 8

9. La Brocante

Photograph: John Brunton

This is the perfect place to stop off for anyone interested in rummaging through flea markets, as it looks out over the sprawling Jeu de Balle market - a daily boot sale teeming with bargains. The bar is especialy lively Saturday and Sunday morning when there is live music, and clubbers from nearby Fuse, one of Europe's prime Techno venues, turn up for breakfast alongside stall holders and bemused tourists.

· Rue Blaes 170

10. Estaminet Toone

You can't avoid tourists in this famous venue, but it is still worth a visit, as since 1830, the Toone has hosted a daily show of marionnettes. Mr Toone, the seventh generation of puppet masters, performs the show in a miniscule Victorian theatre, with on one side, a museum where the marionnettes "sleep", and on the other a snug bar where parents can have quiet drink while their children enjoy the show. The bar is just off Rue des Bouchers, lined with dozens of rip-off seafood restaurants that should be avoided at all costs.

· Petite Rue des Bouchers 6

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